Neuseeland – Nordinsel

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Neuseeland – Nordinsel

Die erste Nacht verbringen wir im Oakwood Manor Motel, nichts Spektakuläres, aber freie Transfers vom Flughafen und zu Apollo Motorhomes, wo wir nach 3 Stunden Warten endlich unseren Camper für den Monat in Neuseeland bekommen. Schnell noch eingekauft und da wir alle wenig Lust auf Großstadt haben, entscheiden wir uns, direkt nach Waitomo zu fahren. Hier gibt es unzählige unterirdische Höhlen, in denen es teilweise vor Glühwürmchen nur so wimmelt. Durch einen Tipp vom hiesigen Top 10 Campground (Top-10-Mitgliedschaft lohnt sich übrigens – vor allem, wenn man die Fähre auf die Südinsel und zurück noch eingeplant hat) machen wir die „Spellbound Tour“, abseits der großen Touristenströme. Wir sind allein mit einem Maori Guide und einem russischen Paar: zuerst in einer Glühwürmchen-Höhle, dann in einer Tropfsteinhöhle. Wir lernen zudem Neuseeländische Aale kennen (angelockt durch Schweinespeck) und die Kinder diese als Streicheltiere schätzen. 

Die Tour in die Höhlen ist atemberaubend schön. Wir bekommen genug Zeit, dass sich unsere Augen auf „Nachtsicht“ umstellen können und lassen uns von tausenden Mini-Lichtern verzaubern – als Höhepunkt gleiten wir per Boot über einen unterirdischen Fluss und genießen diesen besonderen Moment. (Kurze Fussnote: vor X Jahren hat Katinka diese Tour zu ihrem 22. Geburtstag gemacht und war schon damals komplett begeistert.) Doch damit nicht genug: eine zweite Höhle voller Tropfsteinen beeindruck auf andere Weise und regt die Phantasie der Kinder an.

Die Pünktchen oben sind alles Glühwürmchen

Auch wenn wir es eigentlich ruhig angehen lassen wollen (nur nicht zu viel Input!) steht für den nächsten Tag ein Besuch des Hobbiton Movie Sets auf dem Programm. Hier wurden Teile vom Hobbit und Herr der Ringe gedreht (alle Szenen, die im Auenland spielen – für Kenner). Die Erwachsenen sind mit relativ geringen Erwartungen an das natürlich recht touristisch aufgezogen Hobbinton gestartet (im Gegensatz zu unserem ältesten Sohn, der uns mit diversen Detailinformationen zum Plot versorgt). Doch werden wir – und vor allem die Kinder – von dem Zauber der Anlage eingefangen. Das detailverliebte und sehr weitläufige Set entführt uns direkt in die Welt von Bilbo und Frodo. Wow! Dazu spielt das Wetter super mit.

Daher war es auch zu verschmerzen, dass das geplante Mittagessen aufgrund von „health and security issues“ (what?!) ausfallen musste (hinterher stellt sich heraus, dass der Ofen kaputt war…). Aufgrund des Trubels hatten wir eine klasse extra Zeit im „Green Dragon“, um diverse Hobbit Drinks ausführlich zu verkosten – so hat Ture hat seine Affinität zu Gingerbeer und Frank zu Hobbit Dark Ale entdeckt. Not bad guys! 

Weiter ging es nach Rotorua, der Stadt Neuseelands mit starker geothermischer Aktivität, was wir auch auf unserem Campingplatz genießen konnten: es gibt durch heiße Mineralquellen gespeiste Pools for free – bis auf den leicht schwefeligen Geruch, sehr angenehm.

In der Region leben heute noch viele Maori und das Angebot an kulturellen Aktivitäten ist zahlreich. Wir entscheiden uns für Te Puia, wo wir neben Maori Kultur und Kunst auch einen Pool mit heißem, blubberndem Schlamm sowie Geysire bewundern können, sozusagen „all in“. Als weiteres Highlight können wir einen Kiwi, den neuseeländischen Nationalvogel (nicht flugtauglich, aber extrem possierlich), besichtigen.

Leider hat unser Wohnmobil einige technische und auch gesundheitsrelevante (Schimmel-) Probleme, also fahren wir nach Rücksprache mit dem Vermieter wieder zurück nach Auckland und tauschen unser Gefährt. Was auf den ersten Blick als verlorener Tag anmutet, erweist sich als glückliche Fügung: wir landen am Hot Water Beach auf der Coromandel Halbinsel (eine Empfehlung der Familie Aron). Schon der Weg dorthin durch üppige naturbelasse Regenwälder ist wunderschön. Der Hot Water Beach ist eine geologische Besonderheit. Direkt am Strand kommt aus unterirdischen Quellen heißes Wasser an die Oberfläche. Bei Ebbe buddelt man sich seinen eigenen Pool in den Sand, der dann langsam wahlweise mit heißem Wasser aus der Quelle oder kaltem aus dem Meer vollläuft. Am zweiten Tag sind wir schon Pros und finden die perfekte Stelle an der die angenehme Mischung heiß-kalt passt, da die Temperatur teilweise nah am Siedepunkt ist. Am letzten Abend treffen wir per Zufall auch Familie Aron aus Israel wieder und können so das eigentlich für Auckland geplante Treffen nachholen, was wir ohne den Tausch nicht hinbekommen hätten.

Auch den nächsten Stopp, Ohakune, hat sein Highlight: den Tongario National Park mit seinem Alpine Crossing. Wir haben perfektes Wetter und können die knapp 20km durch den Nationalpark angehen – leider klappt die Babysitter Option für unsere Kinder aber nicht, also gehen Katinka und Frank die Tour jeweils alleine an.

Der Lonely Planet informiert uns, dass es „the best one day alpine crossing” ist – na dann mal los.

Leider sind wir ja auch nur „one by one“ – passt also irgendwie. Wir werden morgens um 6:30 (!) vom Bus-Schuttle abgeholt und fahren ca. eine Stunde, bis wir beim Starpunkt des Crossings sind. Unsere Berfürchtungen, dass man als Einzelwanderer bei Problemen ggf. einsam dasteht, erweisen sich als unnötig: „You’ll never walk alone…!“ Mit diversen anderen Touristen geht es auf die erste Etappe: ein beeindruckender Abschnitt ins alpine Gelände, das von vulkanischer Aktivität dominiert wird – leider teilweise auch von schlecht ausgerüsteten chinesischen Mitwanderern 😉

Nach dem ersten Anstieg trennt sich die Spreu vom Weizen, bzw. der Spaziergänger vom „Crosser“. Denn diverse Warnschilder weisen darauf hin, dass es sich beim Tongariro Crossing nicht um einen Sonntagsspaziergang handelt, sondern um eine herausfordernde Alpinwanderung, die einen wöchentlichen Einsatz des Rettungshubschraubers erfordert.

Natürlich schreckt uns das überhaupt nicht, da wir fit und bestens ausgerüstet mit geliehenen Wanderschuhen antreten. Nach dem zweiten Anstieg danken wir der freundlichen Dame in der Touri-Info, die uns empfohlen hatte, hohe Waderschuhe zu leihen: es geht über ein teilweise ziemlich matschiges Schneefeld. Belohnt werden unsere Mühen seit den ersten Metern übrigens mit spektakulären Sichtschneisen auf die schneebedeckten Vulkanberge. Nach dem Schneefeld ist vor dem Schneefeld – als Zwischengang gibt es (bei Katinka eine ziemlich windige) Gradwanderung, die es in sich hat. Mehr rutschend als wandernd (glücklicherweise ist man nicht die einzige, die sich auch mal auf den Po setzt…) erreicht man Schneefeld Nr. 2 – eingebettet zwischen saphirblaue Bergseen und qualmende Vulkanspalten. Und es wird windig. Sehr windig. Beängstigend windig. Spätestens an dieser Stelle wird klar, dass dieser Teil der Reise mit unseren Kindern nicht möglich gewesen wäre. Aber dann ist die Querung geschafft – denkt man. Es folgen noch ca. 1,5h bergab Serpentinen, die uns zum Pick-Up des Shuttles führen. Wir beide sind (natürlich! 🙂 deutlich vor Abfahrt des erst möglichen Transfers zurück nach Ohakune am Pick-up Point, der uns bis vor die Einfahrt unseres Campingplatzes bringt. Resümee: Sehr geile Wanderung – Wo ist das Bier? 

Katinka verträgt anscheinend die Höhenluft nur bedingt und denkt sich: wenn ich diese krassen 19 km schaffe, dann auch den Halbmarathon in Queenstown. Sie wird übermütig und tatsächlich gelingt der bislang gescheiterte Upgrade vom 10km Lauf auf Halbmarathon! We will see… 

Geschafft – we hiked it, we liked it

Zum Abschluss auf der Nordinsel verbringen wir noch einen Nachmittag und eine Nacht in Wellington, der Hauptstadt Neuseelands. Das Highlight hier ist das Te Papa Museum…

9.793 thoughts on “Neuseeland – Nordinsel

  1. Schön, dass der kleine Hobbit, den ich dir geschenkt habe auch das andere Welt und sein Zuhause entdecken darf!

    Viele Grüße und weiter eine gute Reise

    wünschen euch Max und seine Familie

    1. Lieber Max,
      vielen Dank für Deine Nachricht. Der Hobbit hat sich auch gefreut, wieder Zuhause zu sein.
      Viele Grüße, auch an Alle in der Schule,
      Dein Ture
      P.S.: Leider habe ich mein Handy verloren, daher kann ich auch nicht über WhatsApp schreiben…

  2. …neuseeland. 😍
    glühwürmchen/ tongariro crossing – ebenfalls meine highlights von damals. allerdings hatte ich NULL sicht bei der wanderung, stattdessen wind/ regen/ windwind usw. 🙈🙈
    but, we did it.

    es ist herrlich euch zu lesen. liebe grüsse an alle! 😘

    PS: die schwarzen nüsse warten auf euch.. und heute, frank, hat mich ein kind in der hellgrünen gruppe gefragt, warum da an der pinnwand krawatten hängen. 😬😬😉

    lg, kuschel.. 😉

    1. Hey Karola, bzw Kuschel ;-), wow, bei schlechtem Wetter ist das Tongariro Crossing bestimmt hart, Respekt. Freuen uns auf die schwarzen Nüsse und ich hoffe, Du hast vom KARNEVAL gesprochen 🙂
      LG

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