Der Weiterflug zu unserem nächsten Ziel liegt zeitlich ziemlich ungünstig: um 2:45 Uhr startet der Flieger von Tahiti nach Rapa Nui. Darum schlagen wir uns ab 17 Uhr den Nachmittag, den Abend und die Nacht in Papeete um die Ohren. Die Kinder machen super mit und die Eltern gönnen sich das ein oder andere Hinano, um wach zu bleiben.
Auch die 4 Stunden Flug plus 2 Stunden Zeitverschiebung (nach vorne) tragen dazu bei, dass wir alle ziemlich übernächtigt in Rapa Nui aus dem Flieger steigen. Wir versuchen uns in Geduld zu üben, als sich abzeichnet, dass die Einreiseformalitäten wohl eher Stunden als Minuten dauern. Dafür werden wir Zeuge einer polynesischen Begrüßungszeremonie, da offizieller Besuch aus Hawaii mit unserem Flieger angekommen ist. Schön zu sehen, dass der Gesang und Tanz anscheinend nicht nur für die Touristen praktiziert wird, sondern immer noch lebendiger Teil der polynesischen Kultur ist. Zudem schenkt uns (und allen anderen) eine freundliche Dame eine neue Flasche Mückenspray mit dem Hinweis, dass Dengue Fieber ein Thema vor Ort ist. Dank der Übermüdung bleiben wir aber gelassen und Dank unserer Kinder kommen wir in die „fast lane“ für die Einreiseformalitäten. Freundlich, diese Chilenen.
Leider ist unser Host nicht wie versprochen am Flughafen. Da sich auf der Insel aber scheinbar alle kennen, hilft uns eine weitere freundliche Dame mit einem Anruf aus und kurz darauf haben wir wieder Begrüßungsblumenkränze um die Hälse und sitzen wieder in einem Pick-Up, der dieses Mal sogar TÜV-Standard hat, auf dem Weg in unsere Unterkunft.
Ach ja: es ist übrigens der 24.12. Das heißt, dass wir nach der Ankunft noch „mal schnell“ Weihnachten und Espens Geburtstag organisieren. Dank unserer wirklich sehr hilfsbereiten Gastgeberin Kara bekommen wir sogar eine „Torte“ hin und damit können die Festtage starten. Auch wenn wir dekomäßig alles raushauen, bzw. aufpusten (dieses Jahr gibt es einen Luftballon-Tannebaum), will keine wirkliche Weihnachtsstimmung aufkommen. Das liegt neben den sommerlichen Temperaturen und der exotischen Umgebung sicherlich auch daran, dass die Familie nicht da ist. Wir sind uns einig: nächstes Jahr wieder „normal“! (siehe auch Weihnachts-Spezial).
Am 25.12. feiern wir Espens Geburtstag! Leider können wir seine Wunsch-Aktion „surfen“ nicht umsetzen, da die Wellen hier vor Ort weit über unserem Niveau liegen. Schade, aber unser Super-Sohn nimmt es gelassen.
Dafür lädt uns Kara zu einem Mega-Erdofen-Weihnachts-Picknick am 25.12. ein. Bei diesem Event, das von einem der vier Brüder von Kara organisiert wird, kommen alle Nachbarn zusammen, um sich die vorher von allen gespendeten Fleischmassen, Thunfische und Süßkartoffeln bei viel Rotwein Rapa Nui-Style (ohne Besteck) schmecken zu lassen. Danke Kara, für dieses besondere Geburtstags- und Weihnachtsessen!
Wir besorgen uns einen Mietwagen und erkunden die kleine Insel. Sofort werden wir von der besonderen Stimmung rund um die zahlreichen kulturellen Artefakte in den Bann gezogen. Der Steinbruch „Rano Raraku“, als Wiege der Moais, beeindruckt uns durch seine unzähligen „Köpfe“ (die allerdings fast alle unterirdisch noch einen Körper haben) nachhaltig. Ein ganz besonderer Ort.
Und es geht weiter: Tongariki fesselt nicht nur die Erwachsenen. Besonders Ture genießt die Einmaligkeit dieses Kulturdenkmals.
Wir lassen den Tag am Strand von Anakena ausklingen. Diese Eindrücke müssen erst mal verarbeitet werden…
Die nächsten Tage lassen wir es ruhig angehen: Schwimmen für die Kids reicht als Unterhaltung.
Was wir uns nicht entgehen lassen wollen, ist der Sonnenaufgang in Tongariki. Obwohl wir zunächst ohne die Kinder geplant hatten, wollen tatsächlich alle mit und so wird unser frühes Aufstehen mit einem unvergesslichen Morgen entlohnt.
Kleine Anekdote: für die perfekte Sicht mussten wir vor offizieller Öffnung der Anlage den sportlichen Einstieg über eine Mauer wählen. Dafür haben wir einen angemessenen Anschiss vom offiziellen Aufschließer erhalten, der wirklich erbost war. Doch das war es wert!
Zum Jahresende schaffen wir es tatsächlich Lykkas Geburtstagsgutschein „Reiten“ einzulösen. Ein weiterer Bruder von Kara hat Pferde! Voller Enthusiasmus starten alle in das Abenteuer. Doch nachdem Frank ziemlich respektvoll auf seinem Pferd sitzt, hat Ture nach 5 Minuten genug: er lehnt dankend ab und der Vater ist froh, dass er den Sohn nicht alleine lassen kann 😉
Daher reiten Lykka, Espen und Katinka alleine mit Mario, begleitet von vier Hunden, auf den höchsten Berg der Insel. Auch wenn das Kinderpferd geführt und ein Kind bei Mario sitzt (Lykka und Espen tauschen immer mal wieder durch) sind die 3 Stunden Ausritt ein total schönes Erlebnis.
Ein weiteres „must see“ auf Rapa Nui ist Rano Kau / Orongo: der spektakulär gelegene Ort zwischen Vulkankrater und Steilküste erzählt den spirituellen Wechsel der Rapa Nui vom Ahnenkult der Moais zum Vogelmann-Kult. Detailliertere Erklärungen würden den Blog sprengen, daher einfach mal googeln – es lohnt sich!
Ebenfalls auf der Osterinsel für uns angesagt: der Jahreswechsel! Wir genießen ein schönes Abendessen im Restaurant und machen uns dann auf den Weg zur zentralen Party-Bühne. Hier bekommen wir unsere obligatorische „Cultural Show“ for free und tanzen mit vielen anderen Einheimischen und Touristen bei strömendem Regen ins neue Jahr. Auch wenn wir bis auf die Haut durchnässt sind: das war ein absolut gelungener Start ins Jahr 2020!
Neues Jahr – neue Unterkunft. Die Bilder auf Airbnb sahen zu gut aus, darum haben wir noch einen Wohnungswechsel gebucht: die letzten Nächte in der Südsee schlafen wir im Iglu – super schön!
Bei unserer Abschiedstour über die Insel und damit auch von Polynesien wird uns doch etwas melancholisch: es war einfach wunderschön hier!
Der Nabel der Welt!
Das i-Tüpfelchen setzt Kara unserem Abschied noch auf: sie lässt es sich nicht nehmen, uns alle am Flughafen zu verabschieden und schenkt jedem eine Muschelkette (mit der Lykka schon seit einiger Zeit liebäugelt – dieses Glückskind).
Wenn wir ein Resümee ziehen: unsere Reise im Polynesische Dreieck (Hawaii, Neuseeland, Osterinsel) war der Hammer. Nicht nur die wunderschöne Natur wird uns in Erinnerung bleiben, auch die vielen gastfreundlichen Menschen und das gesamte Südseeflair hat uns komplett für diesen Teil der Welt vereinnahmt.
Danke.
Ihr Lieben,
Waren gar nicht mehr auf dem aktuellen Stand und haben uns gerade die letzten Stationen eurer Traumreise angesehen. Wow, Was für unglaublich schöne Bilder und Erlebnisse! Besonders die Osterinseln strahlen etwas richtig Magisches aus. Genießt eure letzten Tage, wir freuen uns schon auf euch.
P.S. Hier ist es auch gerade gar nicht schlecht, klares kaltes Winterwetter mit etwas Sonne – Jahreszeiten sind ja auch etwas Schönes…
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