Chile

Chile by Katinka & Frank910 Kommentare zu Chile

Chile

Santiago
Während unserer Reise erfuhren wir von den politischen Unruhen, die es in Chile und insbesondere in Santiago gegeben hat und darum haben wir uns auch in den Wochen vor dem geplanten Weiterflug nach Santiago über die Lage vor Ort informiert. Jeder oder jede, mit dem wir gesprochen haben, hat davon abgeraten, die Innenstadt von Santiago zu besuchen oder nach Valparaiso an den Pazifik zu fahren: zu unsicher und vor allem zu viel zerstört…daher sind wir froh, dass wir ein Hotel direkt am Flughafen haben. 

Die Eltern freuen sich über kurze Wege, gutes Essen und ein leckeres neues Getränk: Pisco Sour.

Für die Kinder sind der Pool und das Hotelfrühstücksbuffet die Highlights. Wir mieten uns einen Tag ein Auto und steuern nach einem kurzen Shopping-Stopp ein vom Lonely Planet empfohlenes Weingut an, Santa Rita südlich von Santiago. Bei strahlendem Sonnenschein erreichen wir das riesige Weingut, das touristisch einiges zu bieten hat. Wir entscheiden uns für einen Picknickkorb und genießen auf einer Wiese im Schatten allerlei Leckereien. Im Anschluss erkunden wir das zum Weingut gehörende Museum, welches eine beeindruckende Sammlung zur Geschichte Chiles seit der Steinzeit zu bieten hat. 

Punta Arenas
Sehr früh geht der Flieger in den Süden Chiles nach Patagonien. Mit der Landung in Punta Arena startet dann auch die damals wegen Schwangerschaft ausgefallene Hochzeitsreise von Katinka und Frank, wenngleich sie dieses mal eine etwas andere Route nimmt, als wir es vor 13 Jahren ursprünglich geplant hatten. Abgesehen davon reisen wir nun ja auch zu fünft. Wer hätte das damals gedacht…

Und mit dem Verlassen des Flughafengebäudes wird klar, wir haben die tropischen Temperaturen hinter uns gelassen und T-Shirt, Shorts und Flip-Flops können erst einmal verstaut werden. Wir ergattern einen sehr netten Taxi-Fahrer, der auf dem Weg zu unserem AirBnB noch eine kleine Stadtführung mit uns macht. Dabei sehen wir, dass auch die Hauptstadt des chilenischen Teils von Patagonien einiges von den Demonstrationen mitbekommen hat: an den Häuserfassaden findet man überall gesprayte Sprüche, Fenster und Eingänge sind teilweise verbarrikadiert und Denkmäler mit Parolen versehen. Allerdings liegt die letzte Demo laut Aussage des Taxi-Fahrers schon einige Wochen zurück.

Die Hauptattraktion der Stadt ist die Isla Magdalena, auf der sich alljährlich tausende (15.000 brütenden Paare um genau zu sein) Pinguine niederlassen, um ihre Jungen großzuziehen. Diese sind jetzt schon einen Monat alt und annähernd so groß wie die Eltern, aber durch das unterschiedliche Fell noch gut zu unterscheiden. Sehr niedlich. 

Ganz schön was los am Strand…
…auf dem Boot aber auch!
Seelöwen gab´s auch…

Aber auch die Stadt selbst hat einiges für uns zu bieten: einen beeindruckenden Friedhof (Kultur), ein Kino (Spanischunterreicht) und ein Shopping-Center (Konsum). Im letzteren decken wir uns nochmals ordentlich für die geplante Wanderung im Nationalpark Torres del Paine ein und Lykka und Espen haben Spaß auf der Indoor Eisbahn.

Das Kino einen Block von unserem Haus entfernt bietet uns einen Nachmittag „Frozen II“ für Lykka und Katinka und „Verdeckte Spione“ (ebenfalls ein Animationsfilm) für die Jungs und Frank – alles auf Spanisch, aber Dank der überschaubaren Handlungen war alles gut nachvollziehbar. 

Am letzten Tag statten wir dann noch dem Friedhof einen Besuch ab, der mit riesigen Familiengruften und hausähnlichen Gebäuden sehr mondän anmutet. Auch hier zeigen sich Zeichen der Unruhen, sind doch einige Gräber – bspw. die Gruft der Familie eines Schaf-Barons – mit roter Farbe quasi blutverschmiert.

  • Interessanterweise gibt es recht viele kroatische Familie hier
Aus dem Bus heraus noch fix ein Foto von unserem blauen Häuschen gemacht 🙂

Puerto Natales
Mit dem Bus geht es knapp 3 Stunden durch die Steppe Patagoniens zu unserem nächsten Ziel, Puerto Natales. Das Einfallstor zum Torres del Paine Nationalpark wartet mit einer enormen Anzahl an Hostels, Backpackern und allerhand Läden für den geneigten Outdoor-Freak auf und der Gore-Tex-Index steigt exponentiell an. Aber deswegen sind wir ja auch hier und so decken wir uns noch mit etwas Camping-Küchen-Equipment und gut geplanten Trekking-Essensvorräten ein. Vor der entbehrungsreichen Wanderung nutzen wir, bzw. insbesondere Frank, aber auch nochmals das Angebot an chilenischer Fleischküche, auch Asado genannt.

Wir erkunden die Stadt ein wenig, die die eine oder andere interessante Skulptur zu bieten hat.

  • Unsere echt nette Unterkunft
    in Puerto Natales
El Mano, die Hand – so der durchaus nachvollziehbare Name dieses Kunstwerks

Dennoch gilt auch für uns wie für die meisten hier: Puerto Natales ist nur eine Durchgangsstation zum Hauptziel: dem Torres del Paine Nationalpark!

Torres del Paine
Mit einem Mietwagen fahren wir durch die Steppe Patagoniens und entdecken schnell die ersten Guanakas und Condore.

Vom ersten „Mirador“ aus zeigt sich der Torres del Paine von seiner windigen aber darum nicht minder beeindruckender Seite. 

Kurz nach dem offiziellen Parkeingang bekommen wir spektakuläre Bilder geboten – und wir sind mittendrin!

Etwas windig…

Unser Plan für die kommenden drei Tage: wir campen eine Nacht am Refugio Torres Central und wandern dann zum Refugio Chileno, um dort zwei Nächte zu bleiben und von da aus den Base las Torres Mirador zu erwandern und dann wieder zurück zu laufen. Insgesamt eigentlich eine herausfordernde Tageswanderung von 8 Stunden, aber nicht alle Familienmitglieder sind nun mal Trekkingfreaks. Auf geht’s…

Nach der ersten Etappe freuen wir uns über unsere aufgebauten Zelte direkt am Fluss mit Blick auf die drei Torres. Unsere Wanderroute ist Teil des „W-Trecks“, einer der populärsten Mehrtageswanderungen der Welt.

Immerhin haben wir den rechten Teil des Ws gemacht!

Lykka und Espen sind begeistert von den vielen Pferden auf dem Weg und im Refugio: sie sind die einzige Ver- und Entsorgungsmöglichkeit.

  • Bierfass rauf…
  • …Abfall runter!

Am nächsten Morgen geht es dann Richtung Aussichtspunkt Base Las Torres – leider bei einigen Wolken. Auf den letzten ziemlich steilen Metern über ein Geröllfeld donnert ein respektabler Felsen neben uns den Hang herab, der von einer Wandrerin oberhalb losgetreten wurde. Das verschreckt die Kids und Mutter dermaßen, dass sie auf die letzten Meter verzichten. So erreicht Frank alleine den Mirador und den anderen müssen seine Fotos reichen…

Leider konnte man die Spitzen nicht sehen, aber man weiß ja, das sie da sind 🙂

Nach einer weiteren Zeltnacht geht es zurück. Auch wenn wir es langsam angegangen sind, eine klasse Tour, die die Kinder (teilweise mit etwas Ermunterung) wirklich super mitgemacht haben! Auch haben wir hier wieder viele freundliche Menschen kennen gelernt. Zum Beispiel sind wir mit Caro ins Gespräch gekommen, einer Lehrerin aus Bayern, die sich ein Jahr Auszeit genommen hat und die Welt bereist. Schöne Geschichten…

Nach unseren Campingnächten gönnen wir uns zwei Tage im Hotel Rio Serrano. Hier überwältigt nicht nur die Aussicht aus unserem Schlafzimmer, sondern Frank hat für uns Honeymooner auch ein Begrüßungsfläschchen organisiert – hmmm… Danke, Schatz!

Das Rio Serrano Hotel (hinten) direkt am Fluss
Honeymoon mit 13 Jahren Verspätung…

910 thoughts on “Chile”

  1. Beeindruckende Landschaft und tolle Leistung der Kids. Zum Glück ist euch nichts passiert. Kann mir gut vorstellen, dass es ein Schock gewesen sein muss. Genießt noch die letzten Tage und kommt heile zurück. Wir freuen uns schon sehr!!!

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  2. Ihr Lieben, jetzt möchte ich mal nicht auf die traumhaften Fotos, traumhaften Strände, traumhaften Erlebnisse und die vielen traumhaften Begegnungen mit Naturen und Menschen, denen ihr begegnet, eingehen – es ist und bleibt, besonders aus norddeutscher, vom Januar geprägten Perspektive schlicht atemberaubend und wir freuen uns, daß ihr das alles erlebt und eure Träume realisiert habt. Also ihr sollt diesmal ein dickes Kompliment bekommen für die gelungene Synthese aus Fotos und kommentierenden Begleit-Texten. Sie vermittelt wirklich sehr anschaulich eure Freude , euer Genießen und die binnenfamiliale Atmosphäre. Und ihr habt mit euren locker-offenen positiven Schreibstilen wirklich Talent.
    Bis bald, liebe Braunschweiger

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  3. Danke für die tollen Fotos und spannenden Reiseberichte! Wir wünschen Euch einen schönen Ausklang Eurer Reise und eine entspannte Rückreise.
    Bruno freut sich schon darauf, ab übernächster Woche wieder mit Ture das Klassenzimmer zu teilen. 😀

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