Nach 4 Tagen Maui starten wir unser Hawai’i-Inselhüpfen und fliegen nach Big Island. Katinka ist ganz aufgeregt, da auf dieser Insel der Iron Man geboren wurde. Und: unsere Unterkunft in Kona liegt sogar auf dem legendären Ali’i Drive! Was will frau mehr?!
Da die Insel mehr als doppelt so groß ist wie die anderen zusammen, eben „Big“, haben wir uns für je drei Tage an der Ost- und Westseite entschieden.

Darum geht es zunächst nach Hilo, dem Zentrum der Ostküste. Auf der Passstraße zwischen den beiden größten erloschenen Vulkanen der Insel, Mauna Kea und Mauna Loa (hier geht der Abzweiger zu den Gipfeln) scheint aktuell ein lokales Fest gefeiert zu werden, da viele Einheimische hier ihre Zelte aufgeschlagen haben. Leider stellt sich dieses „Volksfest“ als Demonstrations- und Blockadecamp gegen die Erweiterung der Forschungsanlagen durch ein „Thirty-Meter-Telescopes“ (TMT) auf dem heiligen Berg Mauna Kea heraus. Damit hat sich erledigt, dass wir mit unserem fetten Allrad Jeep auf den über 4200m hohen Gipfel des Mauna Kea fahren können. Einerseits ärgerlich, andererseits sind wir so mit der politischen Frage: Wissenschaft vs. Respektieren von Tradition konfrontiert…
Generell scheint es politisch gerade etwas zu brodeln: wir sehen viele Fahnen mit einer alternativen Hawaii Flagge der polynesisch stämmigen Ureinwohner Hawai’is während die offizielle oft verkehrt herum aufgehängt wird.

In der Nähe von Hilo haben wir ein Haus mitten im Regenwald – drumherum ist alles mit Palmen, Farnen und Obstpflanzen (Ananas, Limetten, Papaya etc.) zugewuchert. Das Haus erinnert uns an die Cottage von Katinkas Familie in Kanada („Hallo liebe Schliemänner!) und sobald die Sonne untergeht, startet ein ohrenbetäubendes Zirpen und Zwitschern in der umliegenden Fauna. Zum Glück gibt es im Haus eine Riesenbox mit Ohropax 🙂
Hilo ist die ehemalige Hauptstadt von Hawai’i. Hier besuchen wir das Tsunami Museum und lernen von Dian, halbdeutsch mit Vorfahren aus Pommern, eine Menge über Tsunamis. Wir wussten zum Beispiel nicht, dass Hawaii eine Region ist, die immer wieder von Tsunamis aus dem Pazifik betroffen ist. Seit dem Besuch fallen uns nun auch die Tsunami Warnschilder an den Straßen auf sowie die Hinweise zu den Evakuierungsrouten.
Gruppenbild mit Dame (Dian)

Einen wunderschönen Wasserfall mitten im Regenwald haben wir besucht und auch das Schnorchel, wieder mit Schildkröten, kam nicht zu kurz.
Gruppenbild mit Asiaten (Name leider unbekannt)
Ein Highlight von Big Island ist der Volcano Nationalpark. In einem riesigem Areal kann man die Lavaströme aus verschiedenen Jahren bewundern, die manchmal echt bizarr und wie aus einer anderen Welt anmuten. Zum Meer hin fällt die erkaltete Lava steil ab und es bildete sich eine beeindruckende Klippenküste. Auch wenn seit dem 30.04.2018 keine Lava mehr fließt, war der Besuch wirklich atemberaubend schön!
Auf dem Weg zu unserer zweiten Unterkunft gab es noch einen Stop auf einer Kaffeeplantage und -rösterei, sowie einer historischen Kulturstätte der polynesischstämmigen Hawaiianer.

Unsere Unterkunft in Kona lag in einem Ressort direkt am Meer. Von der Terrasse aus waren es vielleicht noch 10m, bis die Wellen des Pazifik an den Lavastrand brandeten. Leider taten sie das in der ersten Nacht etwas zu heftig – eine Welle klatschte regelgerecht an unser Küchenfenster, so dass am Morgen ein Trupp anrückte, der auf der unteren Etage alle Schotten dicht gemacht hat und den Terrassenbereich erst einmal sperrte. Auch eine Erfahrung…
Vorher… …nachher Schotten dicht! Aber dieses Panorama lassen wir uns nicht nehmen!
Wir haben uns aber immer mal wieder über die Absperrung gewagt und die ein oder andere schöne Minute mit herrlichem Sonnenuntergang und unter traumhaften Sternenhimmel verbracht haben – wir Abenteurer 😉

Dass Katinka und auch Frank (!) auf dem Ali’i Drive joggen waren, musste trotz feucht-heißen 35 Grad natürlich sein. What a feeling – und einen Riesenrespekt vor allen Athleten, die bei diesen Bedingungen DEN Ironman finishen.
Die Küste um Kona hat aber noch eine Besonderheit zu bieten. Jeden Abend, zum Einbruch der Dunkelheit, versammeln sich hier Mantarochen, um das üppig vorhandene Plankton aus dem Meer zu filtern, das von Licht angelockt wird. Katinka, Frank und Lykka (die Jungs hatten keine Lust!!) haben an einer Schnorchel-Tour teilgenommen und tatsächlich einige dieser beeindruckenden Meeresbewohner aus nächster Nähe bestaunen können.
Da wir auf der nächsten geplanten Insel, Kaua’i, keine Campingplätze bekommen haben und sich das Campen auch – insbesondere für Frank – als etwas stressig darstellte, haben wir uns entschieden, das Campingequipment zu streichen. Eines der beiden in Kanada gekauften Zelte haben wir verschenkt, das andere ging zusammen mit den fünf Isomatten per Paket zurück nach Deutschland. Zusätzlich haben wir auch nochmals Klamotten und etwas technisches Equipment aussortiert, die bzw. das wir bislang nicht oder kaum benötigt hatten. Less is more…

Also ihr nehmt das wirklich ernst mit dem Home schooling 😉 Frank und Katinkas aloha school! 😉
Tolle Aufnahme, tolle Erfahrungen! Weiter so!!!
Mal wieder ein sehr spannender Artikel. Camping adé kann ich gut nachvollziehen 😁
Habt ihr die Mantas nachts beobachtet? Was ist das für eine Lichtquelle am Boden? Liebe Grüße CSjj
Hey, ja, wir sind zum Sonnenuntergang raus gefahren. Die Mantarochen werden durch Licht angezogen, am Boden war eine Gruppe Taucher, die eine Lampe dabei hatten. LG
Ihr seid wirklich zu beneiden. Tolle Fotos!!! Bleibt gesund und munter. Wir begleiten euch weiter. Herzliche Grüße aus Hannover
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